Sherry
Sherry:
is a fortified wine made from white grapes that are grown near the town of
Jerez (Jerez de la Frontera), Spain.
The
word “Sherry” is an Anglicization of Xeres (Jerez), pronounced as “Hereth” In
earlier times, Sherry was known as sack (from the Spanish saca, meaning
“extraction” [from the solera]). In Europe, “Sherry” is a protected designation
of origin; in Spanish law, all wine labeled as “Sherry” must legally come from
the Sherry Triangle, which is an area in the province of Cádiz between
Guadalquivir and Guadalete within the areas of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar
de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María. In 1933 the Jerez Denominación de
Origen was the first Spanish denominación to be officially recognized in this
way, officially named D.O. Jerez-Xeres-Sherry and sharing the same governing
council as D.O. Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Vineyard
areas: Vineyards are sited in an area with the town of Jerez de la Frontera in
the middle, Lebrija at the north, Chipiona to the west, Chiclana de la Frontera
to the south and Arcos de la Frontera to the east. Two more towns are important
Puerto de Santamaria and especially for the Fine Manzanilla Sherry styles made,
San Lucar de Barrameda.
After
fermentation is complete, Sherry is fortified with wine alcohol in order to
slightly raise its final alcoholic content. The level of alcohol in the base
wines is increased by mixing wine and alcohol (“half and half”) until the
correct alcoholic strength is acquired. After fermentation the base wine
naturally reaches an alcoholic strength of between 11 and 12.5 percent by
volume.
Types
• Fino
(‘fine’ in Spanish) is the driest and palest of the traditional varieties of
Sherry. The wine is aged in barrels under a cap of flor yeast to prevent
contact with the air.One of the best wines of the world. Final alcohol content
is 16 to 18%. Must be drunk quickly within a few days of opening.
• Manzanilla is an especially light variety of Fino Sherry made around the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Should have 16 to 18% alcohol. These wines are aged in bodegas facing the sea, the resulting wine has a distinct salty taste on the palate. Very dry in style and these are best of dry Sherries.
• Manzanilla Pasada is a Manzanilla that has undergone extended aging or has been partially oxidised, giving a richer, nuttier flavour.
• Amontillado( in the style of Montilla ) is a variety of Sherry that is first aged under flor but which is then exposed to oxygen, producing a sherry that is darker than a Fino but lighter than an Oloroso. Naturally dry, they are sometimes sold lightly to medium sweetened but these can no longer be labelled as Amontillado.
• Oloroso (‘scented’ in Spanish) is a variety of Sherry aged oxidatively for a longer time than a Fino or Amontillado, producing a darker and richer wine. With alcohol levels between 18 and 20%, Olorosos are the most alcoholic Sherries.[ Like Amontillado, naturally dry, they are often also sold in sweetened versions called Cream Sherry. As with Amontillado “Sweet Oloroso”, “Rich Oloroso” and “Oloroso Dulce” are prohibited terms.
• Palo Cortado is a variety of Sherry that is initially aged like an Amontillado, typically for three or four years, but which subsequently develops a character closer to an Oloroso. This either happens by accident when the flor dies, or commonly the flor is killed by fortification or filtration.
• Jerez Dulce (Sweet Sherries) are made either by fermenting dried Pedro Ximénez (PX) or Moscatel grapes, which produces an intensely sweet dark brown or black wine, or by blending sweeter wines or grape must with a drier variety.
• Cream This is the term for sweetened Oloroso and is rich deep amber to golden brown & very sweet and is a common type of sweet Sherry made by blending different wines, such as Oloroso sweetened with PX.
On 12 April 2012, the rules applicable to the sweet and fortified Denominations of Origen Montilla-Moriles and Jerez-Xérès-Sherry were changed to prohibit sweet Oloroso and sweet Amontillado banning terms such as “Rich Oloroso”, “Sweet Oloroso” and “Oloroso Dulce”. Such wines are to be labelled as “Cream Sherry: Blend of Oloroso / Amontillado” or suchlike.
• Manzanilla is an especially light variety of Fino Sherry made around the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Should have 16 to 18% alcohol. These wines are aged in bodegas facing the sea, the resulting wine has a distinct salty taste on the palate. Very dry in style and these are best of dry Sherries.
• Manzanilla Pasada is a Manzanilla that has undergone extended aging or has been partially oxidised, giving a richer, nuttier flavour.
• Amontillado( in the style of Montilla ) is a variety of Sherry that is first aged under flor but which is then exposed to oxygen, producing a sherry that is darker than a Fino but lighter than an Oloroso. Naturally dry, they are sometimes sold lightly to medium sweetened but these can no longer be labelled as Amontillado.
• Oloroso (‘scented’ in Spanish) is a variety of Sherry aged oxidatively for a longer time than a Fino or Amontillado, producing a darker and richer wine. With alcohol levels between 18 and 20%, Olorosos are the most alcoholic Sherries.[ Like Amontillado, naturally dry, they are often also sold in sweetened versions called Cream Sherry. As with Amontillado “Sweet Oloroso”, “Rich Oloroso” and “Oloroso Dulce” are prohibited terms.
• Palo Cortado is a variety of Sherry that is initially aged like an Amontillado, typically for three or four years, but which subsequently develops a character closer to an Oloroso. This either happens by accident when the flor dies, or commonly the flor is killed by fortification or filtration.
• Jerez Dulce (Sweet Sherries) are made either by fermenting dried Pedro Ximénez (PX) or Moscatel grapes, which produces an intensely sweet dark brown or black wine, or by blending sweeter wines or grape must with a drier variety.
• Cream This is the term for sweetened Oloroso and is rich deep amber to golden brown & very sweet and is a common type of sweet Sherry made by blending different wines, such as Oloroso sweetened with PX.
On 12 April 2012, the rules applicable to the sweet and fortified Denominations of Origen Montilla-Moriles and Jerez-Xérès-Sherry were changed to prohibit sweet Oloroso and sweet Amontillado banning terms such as “Rich Oloroso”, “Sweet Oloroso” and “Oloroso Dulce”. Such wines are to be labelled as “Cream Sherry: Blend of Oloroso / Amontillado” or suchlike.
The
“Sherry” brand
Spanish
producers have registered the names Jerez / Xérès / Sherry and will prosecute
producers of similar fortified wines from other places using the same name. In
1933, Article 34 of the Spanish wine Law established the boundaries of Sherry
production as the first Spanish wine denominación. Today, Sherry’s official
status is further recognized by wider EU legislation. Sherry must come from the
triangular area of the province of Cádiz between Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda,
and El Puerto de Santa María. However the name ‘Sherry’ is used as a
semi-generic in the United States where it must be labeled with a region of
origin such as American sherry or California sherry. However such wines cannot
be exported to the EU. Australian wine makers now use the term Apera instead of
Sherry, whilst Australian consumers still use the term Sherry.
Production
Climate
The
Jerez district has a predictable climate, with approximately 70 days of
rainfall and almost 300 days of sun per year. The rain mostly falls between the
months of October and May, averaging 600 l/m². The summer is dry and hot, with
temperatures as high as 40 °C (104 °F), but winds from the ocean bring moisture
to the vineyards in the early morning and the clays in the soil retain water below
the surface. The average temperature across the year is approximately 18 °C (64
°F).
Soil
There
are three types of soil in the Jerez district for growing the grapes for
Sherry:
• Albariza: The best vineyards are planted on the albariza soil. the lightest soil, almost white, and best for growing Palomino grapes. It is approximately 40-50 per cent chalk, the rest being a blend of limestone, clay and sand. Albariza preserves moisture well during the hot summer months.
• Barros: a dark brown soil, 10 per cent chalk with a high clay content. Produces coarser wines.
• Arenas: a yellowish soil, also 10 per cent chalk but with a high sand content. Produces big yields of poor quality wines.
The albariza soil is the best for growing the Palomino grape, and by law 40 per cent of the grapes making up a Sherry must come from albariza soil. The barros and arenas soil are mostly used for Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes.
The benefits of the albariza soil is that it can reflect sunlight back up to the vine, aiding it in photosynthesis. The nature of the soil is very absorbent and compact so that it can retain and maximize the use of the little rainfall that the Jerez region receives.
• Albariza: The best vineyards are planted on the albariza soil. the lightest soil, almost white, and best for growing Palomino grapes. It is approximately 40-50 per cent chalk, the rest being a blend of limestone, clay and sand. Albariza preserves moisture well during the hot summer months.
• Barros: a dark brown soil, 10 per cent chalk with a high clay content. Produces coarser wines.
• Arenas: a yellowish soil, also 10 per cent chalk but with a high sand content. Produces big yields of poor quality wines.
The albariza soil is the best for growing the Palomino grape, and by law 40 per cent of the grapes making up a Sherry must come from albariza soil. The barros and arenas soil are mostly used for Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes.
The benefits of the albariza soil is that it can reflect sunlight back up to the vine, aiding it in photosynthesis. The nature of the soil is very absorbent and compact so that it can retain and maximize the use of the little rainfall that the Jerez region receives.
Grapes
Before
the phylloxera infestation in 1894, there were estimated to be over 100 varieties
of grape used in Spain for the production of Sherry, but now there are only
three white grapes grown for Sherry-making:
• Palomino: also referred to as Palomino Fino, the dominant grape used for the dry sherries. Approximately 90 per cent of the grapes grown for Sherry are Palomino. As varietal table wine, the Palomino grape produces a wine of very bland and neutral characteristics. This neutrality is actually what makes Palomino an ideal grape because it is so easily enhanced by the Sherry winemaking style.
• Pedro Ximénez: used to produce sweet wines. When harvested these grapes are typically dried in the sun for two days to concentrate their sugars. Wine made from these grapes are used to sweeten the Sherry. These are not planted much now in the Jerez region as the area of Montilla grows it better as most of the Sherry sweetening wines come from here.
• Moscatel: used similarly to Pedro Ximénez, but it is less common.
Sherry-style wines made in other countries often use other grape varieties.
• Palomino: also referred to as Palomino Fino, the dominant grape used for the dry sherries. Approximately 90 per cent of the grapes grown for Sherry are Palomino. As varietal table wine, the Palomino grape produces a wine of very bland and neutral characteristics. This neutrality is actually what makes Palomino an ideal grape because it is so easily enhanced by the Sherry winemaking style.
• Pedro Ximénez: used to produce sweet wines. When harvested these grapes are typically dried in the sun for two days to concentrate their sugars. Wine made from these grapes are used to sweeten the Sherry. These are not planted much now in the Jerez region as the area of Montilla grows it better as most of the Sherry sweetening wines come from here.
• Moscatel: used similarly to Pedro Ximénez, but it is less common.
Sherry-style wines made in other countries often use other grape varieties.
Harvesting:
The
vintage takes place in the first three weeks of September and the vintage last
for about 15 days. Using just one grape variety presents problem in that all
the grapes will ripen at the same time so needing a large labour force at the
harvest time.. The grape bunches are usually one kilo in weight or very near.
Yields:
The grapes will be picked and placed in to baskets that holds 12 to 14 kilos of grapes. 60 baskets will fill one sherry butt.. Yields of must will be three butts per aranzada ( an area of land equivalent to 0.45 acres ).
Yields:
The grapes will be picked and placed in to baskets that holds 12 to 14 kilos of grapes. 60 baskets will fill one sherry butt.. Yields of must will be three butts per aranzada ( an area of land equivalent to 0.45 acres ).
Pressing:
The
Palomino grapes are harvested in early September, and pressed lightly to
extract the must. Traditionally grapes are trodden in large open troughs
(lagares). Now a days the Wilmes pneumatic is more predominantly used. The must
from the first pressing, the primera yema, is used to produce Fino and
Manzanilla and the must from the second pressing, the segunda yema will be used
for Oloroso ; the product of additional pressings is used for lesser wines, distillation
and vinegar.
Fermentation:
Natural
yeast are used. The 72 hour fermentation in the hot climate is very active
having the appearance of boiling. Almost all the sugar are converted to a
strength of 11 to 12% of alcohol. Fermentation continues slowly and quietly for
further 6 to 8 weeks. Fermentation is in casks (butts) which are left open for
the wine to have an air contact and encourage oxidation.
Classification
and Fortification:
Immediately
after fermentation, the wine is sampled and the first classification is
performed. The casks are marked with the following symbols according to the
potential of the wine:
/ A
single stroke indicates a wine with the finest flavour and aroma, suitable for
Fino or Amontillado. These wines are fortified to about 15 percent alcohol to
allow the growth of flor. Flor develops due to the action of a yeast based
fungus called Mycoderma Vini. The yeast seems to be a special form of
Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Saccharomyces carpensis.0
/. A single stroke with a dot indicates a heavier, more full-bodied wine. These wines are fortified to about 17.5 percent alcohol to prevent the growth of flor, and the wines are aged oxidatively to produce Oloroso.
// A double stroke indicates a wine which will be allowed to develop further before determining whether to use the wine for Amontillado or Oloroso. These wines are fortified to about 15 percent alcohol.
/// a triple stroke indicates a wine that has developed poorly, and will be distilled.
A butt of Sherry is usually measured at 500 litres although the actual capacity of the casks is 600 litres. This empty space ( ullage ) encourages oxidation essential for the forming of the Sherry style.
The Sherry is fortified using destilado, made by distilling wine, usually from La Mancha. The distilled spirit is first mixed with mature Sherry to make a 50/50 blend known as mitad y mitad (half and half), and then the mitad y mitad is mixed with the younger Sherry to the proper proportions. This two-stage procedure is performed so the strong alcohol will not shock the young Sherry and spoil it.
/. A single stroke with a dot indicates a heavier, more full-bodied wine. These wines are fortified to about 17.5 percent alcohol to prevent the growth of flor, and the wines are aged oxidatively to produce Oloroso.
// A double stroke indicates a wine which will be allowed to develop further before determining whether to use the wine for Amontillado or Oloroso. These wines are fortified to about 15 percent alcohol.
/// a triple stroke indicates a wine that has developed poorly, and will be distilled.
A butt of Sherry is usually measured at 500 litres although the actual capacity of the casks is 600 litres. This empty space ( ullage ) encourages oxidation essential for the forming of the Sherry style.
The Sherry is fortified using destilado, made by distilling wine, usually from La Mancha. The distilled spirit is first mixed with mature Sherry to make a 50/50 blend known as mitad y mitad (half and half), and then the mitad y mitad is mixed with the younger Sherry to the proper proportions. This two-stage procedure is performed so the strong alcohol will not shock the young Sherry and spoil it.
Aging
and blending:
The
fortified wine is stored in 500-litre casks that are made of North American oak
called butts which is less porous than French or Spanish oak. The casks, or
butts, are filled five-sixths full, leaving “the space of two fists” empty at
the top to allow flor to develop on top of the wine. Sherries are matured in
tall well ventilated buildings called Bodegas.
Sherry is then aged in the solera system, which is a system of fractional blending .This is a rather complex arrangement of barrels (butts) where wine travels from one to another in a precise order during its maturation using tools called the canoa (canoe) and rociador (sprinkler) to move the wine gently and avoid damaging the layer of flor particularly in the fino barrels.. Rather confusingly, the lowest level of butts is known as the solera, which is the name also used for the entire system. This is the final stage in the maturation process, and this is where the wine leaves the system. Up to one-third of the wine may be withdrawn each year from these barrels, but typically the amount taken will be 10–15%. They are fed by wine from the next level of butts, knows and the first criadera. The first criadera is in turn topped up by a third level of butts, the second criadera. Wine in the second criadera is usually replenished by new wine, which may be stored in the bodega. There can be more than three levels in the most complex of the solera systems. Sherry that has been through a solera system such as this will therefore contain a mixture of vintages. The system helps maintain a house style, and results in consistent wines. Some vintage-dated sherries that have not been through a solera exist, but these are a rarity .The portion of wine moved from one criadera to another is limited to a maximum of 33% percent of each barrel. This process is called “running the scales” because each barrel in the series is called a scale.
So the age of the youngest wine going into the bottle is determined by the number of barrels in the series, and every bottle also contains some much older wine. Sherry is aged in the solera for a minimum of 3 years.
Sherry is then aged in the solera system, which is a system of fractional blending .This is a rather complex arrangement of barrels (butts) where wine travels from one to another in a precise order during its maturation using tools called the canoa (canoe) and rociador (sprinkler) to move the wine gently and avoid damaging the layer of flor particularly in the fino barrels.. Rather confusingly, the lowest level of butts is known as the solera, which is the name also used for the entire system. This is the final stage in the maturation process, and this is where the wine leaves the system. Up to one-third of the wine may be withdrawn each year from these barrels, but typically the amount taken will be 10–15%. They are fed by wine from the next level of butts, knows and the first criadera. The first criadera is in turn topped up by a third level of butts, the second criadera. Wine in the second criadera is usually replenished by new wine, which may be stored in the bodega. There can be more than three levels in the most complex of the solera systems. Sherry that has been through a solera system such as this will therefore contain a mixture of vintages. The system helps maintain a house style, and results in consistent wines. Some vintage-dated sherries that have not been through a solera exist, but these are a rarity .The portion of wine moved from one criadera to another is limited to a maximum of 33% percent of each barrel. This process is called “running the scales” because each barrel in the series is called a scale.
So the age of the youngest wine going into the bottle is determined by the number of barrels in the series, and every bottle also contains some much older wine. Sherry is aged in the solera for a minimum of 3 years.
Fining
and filtration:
Before
the Sherry is bottled it undergoes a couple of fining and filtration to render it
absolutely clear before the sherry is bottled. In case a sweet sherry is made
then the Sherry extracted from the solera is blended with vino dulce made from
Pedro Ximenez grapes. Also may be added boiled down must from the Pedro Ximenez
grapes to get the requisite colour.
Bottling:
In the final step of the preparation the Sherry is bottled and sent to the
market. Sherry does not benefit from bottle ageing.
Storing
and drinking:
Once
bottled, Sherry does not benefit from further aging and may be consumed immediately,
though the sherries that have been aged oxidatively may be stored for years
without losing their flavor. Bottles should be stored upright to minimize the
wine’s exposed surface area. As with other wines, Sherry should be stored in a
cool, dark place.
Fino and Manzanilla are the most fragile types of Sherry and should usually be drunk soon after opening. In Spain, Finos are often sold in half bottles, with any remaining wine being thrown out if it is not drunk the same day it is opened.[ Amontillados and Olorosos will keep for longer, while sweeter versions such as PX, and blended cream Sherries, are able to last several weeks or even months after opening, since the sugar content acts as a preservative.
Sherry is traditionally drunk from a copita, a special tulip-shaped Sherry glass. Sampling wine directly from a Sherry butt may be performed with characteristic flourish by a venenciador, named after the special cup (the venencia) traditionally made of silver and fastened to a long whalebone handle. The cup, narrow enough to pass though the bunghole, withdraws a measure of Sherry which is then ceremoniously poured from head height into a copita held in the other hand.
Recently, young people drink it mixed with lemonade soft-drink and ice. It is called Rebujito, although it was popular in the Victorian age, known as sherry-cobbler.[
Non solera Sherries: Non solera Sherries are also available, being of a particular vintage and unblended. These are termed as Almacenistas. These will generally be made by Sherry specialists called “Afficionados”and sell them to the major Sherry producers although an increasing amount is being sold publicly.
Fino and Manzanilla are the most fragile types of Sherry and should usually be drunk soon after opening. In Spain, Finos are often sold in half bottles, with any remaining wine being thrown out if it is not drunk the same day it is opened.[ Amontillados and Olorosos will keep for longer, while sweeter versions such as PX, and blended cream Sherries, are able to last several weeks or even months after opening, since the sugar content acts as a preservative.
Sherry is traditionally drunk from a copita, a special tulip-shaped Sherry glass. Sampling wine directly from a Sherry butt may be performed with characteristic flourish by a venenciador, named after the special cup (the venencia) traditionally made of silver and fastened to a long whalebone handle. The cup, narrow enough to pass though the bunghole, withdraws a measure of Sherry which is then ceremoniously poured from head height into a copita held in the other hand.
Recently, young people drink it mixed with lemonade soft-drink and ice. It is called Rebujito, although it was popular in the Victorian age, known as sherry-cobbler.[
Non solera Sherries: Non solera Sherries are also available, being of a particular vintage and unblended. These are termed as Almacenistas. These will generally be made by Sherry specialists called “Afficionados”and sell them to the major Sherry producers although an increasing amount is being sold publicly.
Sherry
producers:
Gonzalez Byass
Pedro Domenq
Harveys
Duff Gordon
Osborne
Barbadillo
Williams Humbert
Croft
Gonzalez Byass
Pedro Domenq
Harveys
Duff Gordon
Osborne
Barbadillo
Williams Humbert
Croft
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